How to: Create a Fragrance

We just launched our first ever fragrance (HERE). And it’s a big deal, in more ways than the obvious. I am going to share the process - because it’s very different than “how it’s done” but it is very much “how it can be done”. And in my opinion, “how it should be done.” At least if you are small and independent. Let’s go.

Step 1: Find / meet someone you trust. What does “trust” mean? It means: you have deep respect for their talent, you have a shared mindset, and they are an expert in their field - this is not their first rodeo. No one needs two novice cowboys circling a bull. These three points are critical in any creative endeavor where the outcome has to be great, but it can’t be concreted in advance. Here, unlike in real math, 2+2 does not always equal 4. Mutual agreement on the opportunity, but not the outcome, is a must.

I’ll elaborate on each:

Finding the right person: start with seeking human and not a request for AI to find a partner. I was introduced to Abel through Gabriel who had discovered the scents at Dover Street Market. Subsequently, he grew an obsession for Abel and, as a result, for natural fragrances. When I’d wear one of my favorite “synthetic” scents near him, he’d grab his neck in gag reflex. “So dramatic”, I’d declare. Gabe curiously DM’d Frances and she responded - not an assistant, her. My type of people. We asked to have her on our podcast Almost Reckless - she was a perfect guest. That was all - at the time. That “no expectations, let’s just meet, who knows” thinking opens up the mind to future possibilities.

Entrepreneur note: find the people who match your scope and size- you become great together. You have to reach out, engage, build relationships. And no, fishing for Puig executives on LinkedIn is not considered “reaching out” - unless you are Calvin Klein.

Shared mindset: Frances embodies the definition of “positive intent.” Here’s what that means. When something happens, she calls to make sure we’re on the same page. No assumptions. Because a business relationship should not be predicated on one’s ability to read the tea leaves. Have you ever worked with someone who professes to be a “face” reader. If my “face” is accompanied by a verbal “this is not what I expected, I want to see xyz instead” - then it meant nothing. Nada. Neither Frances nor I are passive aggressive. I don’t like to think we’re the opposite - aggressive - but the reality is verbal transparency allows us to know where we stand with each other at all times. Words are good.

Respect their craft and skills: Do you know Frances, the Creative Director and Founder of Abel? She’s a powerhouse who created an industry where one didn’t exist ten years ago. Luxury, complex, all organic fragrances. Armed with conviction that this should exist, she sought out Isaac, one of the best “noses” in Paris, and asked the question “can this be done?”. Isaac, a scent obsessed fellow native New Zealander answered “why not?” Turns out there were lots of reasons why it hadn’t been done before. You see, even thought it’s all natural, it requires tremendous know-how of the chemistry of it all and some lucky timing breaks with progress in the biosciences interest in clean-label foods. Couple this with the inertia of some of the big perfume houses, where status quo is just fine, you have a recipe for success if the will is there. Frances has will. I love her scents and I respect her will. That means that while I will have opinions on how Tibi should “smell” I’m going to listen to Frances and Isaac about how best to get there.

^{Frances and I chatting at our Spring 27 runway show back stage.}

Step 2: The Process. Communication here is critical, especially when one of you knows the language and the other does not. It’s in the delicate balance of naiveté and critical knowledge that amazing things happen. In a creative endeavor, it’s always important to have someone not eyeballs deep into the process and the knowledge. When you become too aware of the limitations - what could and has gone wrong - you start to close yourself off to the possibilities of what could go right. We coupled my certainty of how I wanted to “feel” in the scent, with France’s gut where this could take us, and Isaac’s deep technical knowledge to develop a scent that was just right.

1. The Creative Brief: I shared what I wanted - using my words: easy going, but modern and new, with a hint of familiarity. We agreed the notes would be light, but complex and grounded.

2. Elements Review: In Paris, we met in the “ingredients” room. Isaac presented what could get us the feeling I wanted. The process was like taking a class on wine - you have to find words to express - but you also have to understand if you’re tasting the same things as others. Did you know Frances was a wine vintner before starting Abel? This all checks out. Isaac shared what ingredients could match my words:

Grounding: something of the earth. He presented a plate of Vitaver Root- and I immediately responded: “green with depth”. Isaac said yes. Ok, we are in sync.

Easy going but complex, all the same: Pepper. Small bowls of pepper were presented. Some were met with a sneeze. Some were sultry. Wow, the range - but also, in the natural world there are many considerations. Some hit great at first sniff, but they fade quickly. Others cause an initial reaction that morphs over time. Turns out anything organic can be a little unpredictable- such is nature. The goal is to embrace that and direct it to do great things.

Feminine: When I said I wanted “familiar” I didn’t expect it to take the form of something feminine. Isaac presented a range of florals - Gardenias, that reminds me of my mom. Rose, I’ve never reacted well to. I realized I don’t have any true floral scents in my scent rotations. He then presented a range of fruits. Varied types of apples. Limes. Oranges and grapefruits. Yes, that was it! Something about that juicy citrusy smell - sweet but with edge did it for me. Issac got all nerdy and thrilled here because of recent bioscience breakthroughs - the ability to extract the molecules from the discarded rinds of citrus fruit. If we loved it, we’d be the first to use it. This truly would be modern, a first ever.

3. The first set of scents were developed and presented. Three bottles comprised of the same notes, but played at different levels. We loved all, and unanimously agreed on one - with a few minor comments. Frances was floored. This doesn’t happen right out of the gate. NOTE: we’ve learned not to check ourselves when this happens - it isn’t an indication of a willingness to settle, pure recklessness. Rather, it’s what happens when people are in sync.

4. The comments were incorporated. A second round of four bottles was presented. One of the scents was a total wild card that Frances threw in. It was one she was developing separate of us, she loved it, and wanted to see how it would hit. It was good, really good. But not us. At least not the introduction of us. We agreed that bottle #3 was it - but I still felt there was something missing, I couldn’t put my finger on it. Isaac said yes, now that we know the core, they add what will bring it all together. He described it as like cooking soup, you combine the ingredients you love, it’s been on the stove for a little while, but it hasn’t come together yet. They knew what would bring it all together: Yerba Mate tea leaves. A soothing element - a bit bitter, smoky, and earthy. It grabs the attributes of the other elements and kind of bear hugs them in to a beautiful scent.

5. The final submit: Vitaver Root, Temut Pepper, Orange Molecule, Yerba Mate tea leaves. We loved. No changes. Press go.

Step 3: The Launch. We had our launch party last week in our studio in the Marais. Isaac said in all his years of doing this, he’d never seen a fragrance hit the mark straight out of the gate. But I reminded him, the party was filled with our people. There is a tiger lady walking around somewhere bathed in a scent from the Duty Free shop, and she will not love what we love. And that’s ok.

Now, after all this, I am deeply converted to natural fragrance. I am in way greater awe of the groundbreaking work Frances has done in this field. A true pioneer. And I no longer get migraines from colognes - natural fragrance is so kind that way. But above all, I especially love what we’ve created. The scent, the thought behind it, the team that came together to get it done.

You’ll love it too. If you share our mindset.